Dirived In Parts From CAV Stewards Handbook Which is Avaliable From
Steward Supervisor.
HANDLING
1. For any breed, the first thing you need to be certain of is that
each cat is awake before you attempt to open or remove it from its cage
– nobody likes being woken with a fright! Whilst some breeds are
placid and can be handled easily, there are many breeds that react quickly
to unexpected intrusion of their cages. To ensure both your safety and
that of the cat, tap gently on the top of each cage and speak quietly
and confidently to each cat before you attempt to handle it.
2. To remove the cat from the cage; after opening the cage, reach in
with whichever hand feels more comfortable, give the cat a couple of
strokes on the head to gauge its mood and then turn the cat towards
the back of the cage by using your hand firmly on its chest. Then, with
the same hand, pull the cat out to sit firmly in your other hand or
on your hip if more experienced – remember, it is preferred that
you have two hands on the cat at all times possible. To re-iterate;
always take a cat out of the cage backwards, then if it gets away from
you, it will only jump back into its cage. If a cat wants to walk out
– what a pleasure – just mind he isn’t planning an
escape stunt.
3. The judge relies upon the steward to take the cat from the cage and
place it on the table for judging in a way which causes the cat as little
stress as possible (see specific hints for handling different breeds
elsewhere in this manual). When the cat is on the table do not let go
until the judge has it safely held. Try not to let the cat see its neighbour
during this time as this may upset it. Make sure that the door is kept
open with no obstruction between the cat and its cage. While the cat
is out, never let it out of your sight. Be ready to control it should
the judge move away or start writing in the judge’s book. The
judge may hand you the cat, leave the cat on the table for you to return
or the judge may return the cat themselves. Disinfect the table top
(if the judge or other steward has not already done so in your absence)
and wash your hands before moving to the next exhibit.
4. Be very aware of your hands – particularly with longhaired
breeds – make sure they are dry; a breeder who has worked on a
cat’s coat for hours will not appreciate you handling their prized
possession with wet hands!
5. In the event of a cat causing any injury, do not panic – attend
to the wounds – either your own or the judges’ whilst someone
notifies the Show Manager. Great care should be taken to cover wounds
quickly to prevent spillage of blood until such time as the wound can
be washed and treated appropriately. Should you get bitten or badly
scratched, make sure you see a doctor for antibiotics and ensure your
Tetanus shots are up-to-date.
6. If a cat is being fractious or even just wriggly on the judges’
table – sometimes it will respond well to having its cushion brought
out and placed on the table for them to stand on. If you think this
might be a good idea, suggest it to the judge before you do it.
7. Sometimes, especially during the “Best” presentations,
you may be required to hold a cat for a long time, if the cat gets bored
and starts wiggling around or trying to get away, just touch the chest
gently or tickle under the chin and scratch the lower back a bit or
a gentle stroke or two. Experienced stewards may “give it its
legs” for a moment by holding it steady on the floor and bouncing
it slightly, this requires experience and should only be done by a qualified
steward who has been shown the technique. Keep it amused, but not revved
to the max.
8. Kittens are one of the two most special cats at any show. Kittens
are the future show cats and if a kitten is fussed over and loved and
made to feel unthreatened and special, it will be a great show adult
for years to come.
9. Group 4 – Domestics - are the most beautiful cats in somebody’s
home – that’s why they are brought to the show and even
if it doesn’t win or does not look special to you, make- believe
it is for the pet owner could soon be a future pedigreed cat exhibitor
and help keep our fancy strong and growing. They are not second-rate
citizens.
10. And, remember; always put the exhibit back in the correct cage!
FRACTIOUS CATS
1. According to the CAV By-Laws, an exhibit that cannot be taken out
of its cage, must not be judged and will be marked UTH (Unable To Be
Handled). A judge or steward shall report this to the Show Manager immediately
who will take the necessary action.
2. When in doubt about a cat’s attitude, check with the judge
and/or call the Steward Supervisor to handle the animal.
3. Being badly bitten by a cat is not only painful and dangerous, but
renders the victim virtually crippled for several weeks and out-of-pocket
after treatment and antibiotics – so do not be a hero. Don’t
be frightened – but if in serious doubt – do not handle.
4. Be aware of the cat’s moods and what it perceives. Some cats
feel crowded or are scared of heights. Some cats don’t like people
towering over them or glaring at them for long periods of time. If we
try and be sensitive to all the cats’ feelings, most incidents
can be avoided. Respect each and every cat you handle at all times.
Be gentle and firm – but never rough.
5. Be careful if a cat tries to roll; he might simply want his belly
rubbed or he may be getting into a position to strike – take notice
of any other signs to help you interpret the cat’s intentions.
You will gain confidence in gauging whether a cat is bluffing or really
does want to eat you.
6. WARNING SIGNALS
* Body tensed up
* Ears flattened – except in a Scottish Fold, of course
* Hunched body
* Fluffed up tail and/or ridge on the back
* Lashing tail (Not to be mistaken for the Egyptian Maus waiving tail
of excitment)
* Narrowed eyes
* Hissing growling or spitting – especially huffing and puffing.
Complete CAV Steward Handbook Is Avaliable From Steward Suprevisor.
Thanks go to Keryn Rivvett ACF Nat/InNat All Breeds judge.
